Planking

There is one last detail before we get to the planking.  Anywhere  there is a keel joint that intersects the Rabbet, the notch that receives the boat planking in the keel, there needs to be a "stop water" which does just that.  It stops any water that might get into the Rabbet from  outside  from traveling along the junction of the keel piece into the inside of the boat.  Here the junction is the intersection of the knee which backs the Stem (front piece of the ship) and the top of the keel.  Stop waters are typically soft wood dowels pounded into the hole you drill at the junction of the keel pieces and the rabbet.

At the bow of the ship the planking requires a bit of twist to hit the Chine, the Rabbet and lay flat on the stringers.  Here we have steamed the bottom planking (5/4 SYP) and are imparting the necessary twist into the planks by clamping them with some wedges.

As mentioned previously, unlike the upper planking, the bottom planking is both thicker (5/4 vs 1X) and is vertical vs horizontal (Maryland style bottom planking).  The planks are attached with deck screws, galvanized screws and galvanized ring nails.  Although probably overkill, I also used 3M 5200 to bed the entire Rabbet and to the Chine for the first dozen planks or so forward.  The remainder of the Chine was bedded with just tar aft.

clamping and screwing

5200 and galvanized screws into Rabbet

Tar bedding at frame and stringer

Fully planked

horizontal planking fore and aft